Welcome to our quick guide to making blinds! Whether you are looking to start a business or make blinds for home use, we’ve put together some tips to get you started. Making your own blinds means you can customise your look, and most types of blinds are simple to create! There are lots of styles of blinds to choose from. These are just some of them:
- Roller blinds
- Roman blinds
- Austrian blinds
- London blinds
- Scalloped blinds
- Festoon blinds
- Balloon blinds
Materials
There are many types of fabric which are specially made for roller blinds. These tend to be quite stiff, like canvas, and they often include plastics which are particularly useful if the blind is going in a kitchen or bathroom. These materials usually do not need hemming as they don’t fray. You will need enough fabric to cover the window with spare at the top and bottom for the hems for the blind-fittings.
If you choose a fabric not specifically designed for making blinds, choose a relatively stiff fabric, or buy a spay-can of fabric stiffener to spray on a softer fabric to make it suitable. In this case, you’ll need to make sure the fabric covers the window, with extra at the sides as well as the top and bottom, for hemming.
The fabric for a roller blind needs to be medium weight so that it folds crisply, but not too heavy or stiff. The folds need to fall easily. It’s best to use a single piece or fabric and avoid having a vertical seam in the middle of the blind. If the window is very wide, it’s better to make two blinds rather than one very wide one. Roller blinds work best on taller windows which allow for at least two folds.
Cotton
Medium-weight natural cotton is a popular choice, particularly for roman blinds. It is relatively durable and is easy to maintain compared to other, more delicate fabrics. Blinds made with this fabric are also easy to wash or vacuum to keep them clean! In particular, organic, sustainably sourced cotton is a good option for more eco-conscious makers.
Cotton blends
These usually combine cotton with man-made fibres like polyester and nylon. This gives them water-resistant properties and makes them ideal for rooms like bathrooms and kitchens where the blinds are likely to be subject to water splashes or general humidity. They are fire-safe and less likely to fade in sunlight.
Linen
Linen is another naturally sourced fabric which is commonly used for blinds. It usually comes in neutral shades and has a loose weave which allows light to filter through. Thanks to its naturally antimicrobial properties, it is resistant to mould and mildew and can be used in humid environments. Blinds made using linen are therefore suitable for use in bathrooms, kitchens, conservatories, etc. Linen doesn’t tear so it is durable!
Voile
Voile is sheer, lightweight, and breathable. It is popular because it lets in light and air and provides some privacy. As the fabric is thin and delicate, it is not as durable as fabrics like cotton.
Chenille
Chenille fabric is made from short pieces of cotton, rayon or olefin which are twisted together to create a textured effect. It has an attractive sheen and is soft to the touch. This fabric has the benefit of thermal properties and is effective for making blackout blinds. However, it often needs to be dry cleaned or hand washed and is prone to stretching out of shape.
Fittings
All types of blinds will require some fittings – wooden or plastic rods or battens, cords, tape, eyelets, an acorn, a cleat, and Velcro. These are often available as a kit, which is recommended if you haven’t made blinds before. The kit instructions will show you how to hang the blind properly.
Roller blinds
* Remember that you’ll be making deeper hems than usual at the top and bottom to accommodate the laths and blind fittings.
* If you need to hem the sides, start by doing this and ironing the hems flat.
* Usually, the top edge of the blind will be attached by Velcro to the wooden batten at the top of the window. Sew the furry part of the Velcro to the fabric, turning in a narrow single hem to hide the raw edge. It’s a good idea to use a zipper foot when attaching Velcro so you can stitch close to the furry part. This method also makes it easy to remover the blind for cleaning. However, your kit may suggest a different way to attach the fabric at the top, so read the instructions before you sew.
* Make a hem at the bottom of the fabric which is big enough to take the wooden or plastic rod or lath.
* Follow the instructions on the kit for how to attach the cords and pulley system. You’ll need to slide the wooden lath into the bottom hem and hand stitch into place, before rolling the fabric carefully into the roller.
* These are very easy and add a decorative element to a roller blind. Make up the roller blind as explained above, then add a scalloped edge BELOW the wooden lath. These are usually six to twelve inches in depth so you’ll need extra fabric, and you can cut any scalloped design you like. Be careful to measure out before you cut your scallops so they sit centrally on the finished blind. You can use decorative sewing stitches on your sewing machine to finish off the bottom edge or attach tassels or braid.
* You will need enough to completely cover the window, with extra on all four edges for hemming. The top and bottom will require deeper than normal hems.
* Begin by hemming the side edges and ironing flat.
* Attach the fluffy part of the Velcro to the top edge, turning a small hem underneath to finish off the raw edge.
* To make the casings to hold the rods or batons, the fabric needs to be folded and sewn to create tubs or casings in which to slide the rods. (You can buy ready-made roman blind tape on a roll off the shelf). You need to decide what distance you want between each casing – a standard distance is about 10 inches. Start from the top edge and mark 10 inches down the blind. Draw a line across the width of the fabric with tailors’ chalk or a pencil (use a ruler). Then draw a parallel line beneath it at a distance of one inch. Finally draw a third line, again at a distance of one inch. Fold the fabric on the centre line so the two outside lines lie together, and stitch across the blind on the outside lines, creating a tube.
* From this tube, measure a further 10 inches down the blind, and repeat the above process to make the next casing. Repeat this until you reach the last 10 or so inches of your blind. Make a casing at the bottom to hold the final rod or baton.
* Make sure all the casings are on the wrong side of the fabric. It’s easy to get this wrong if the fabric is the same on both sides, but the blind won’t work if the casings aren’t all on the wrong side of the fabric – the same side as the Velcro.
* You may need to trim the rods or batons to size – use a hacksaw to do this. Once the rods or batons are in the casings, hand stitch them in place.
Roman blinds
* Begin by hemming the side edges and ironing flat.
* Attach the fluffy part of the Velcro to the top edge, turning a small hem underneath to finish off the raw edge.
* To make the casings to hold the rods or batons, the fabric needs to be folded and sewn to create tubs or casings in which to slide the rods. (You can buy ready-made roman blind tape on a roll off the shelf). You need to decide what distance you want between each casing – a standard distance is about 10 inches. Start from the top edge and mark 10 inches down the blind. Draw a line across the width of the fabric with tailors’ chalk or a pencil (use a ruler). Then draw a parallel line beneath it at a distance of one inch. Finally draw a third line, again at a distance of one inch. Fold the fabric on the centre line so the two outside lines lie together, and stitch across the blind on the outside lines, creating a tube.
* From this tube, measure a further 10 inches down the blind, and repeat the above process to make the next casing. Repeat this until you reach the last 10 or so inches of your blind. Make a casing at the bottom to hold the final rod or baton.
* Make sure all the casings are on the wrong side of the fabric. It’s easy to get this wrong if the fabric is the same on both sides, but the blind won’t work if the casings aren’t all on the wrong side of the fabric – the same side as the Velcro.
* You may need to trim the rods or batons to size – use a hacksaw to do this. Once the rods or batons are in the casings, hand stitch them in place.
Machines
You can use many different kinds of industrial sewing machine to make blinds, if you are looking for something specific then our team are here to recommend the right machines to make your life as easy as possible! Our team have developed several bespoke machines to automate the process of making blinds. You can speak to us directly to receive recommendations tailored to you and you process, but this list is a great starting point based on the machines other makers we work with currently use:
The Juki DDL-7000A-7 is an excellent choice if you're looking for a lockstitch machine for sewing light to medium weight fabrics. It has additional automatic features such as thread trimming and backtack to make sewing as easy and hassle-free as possible.
The Juki DDL-9000C is another great lockstitch option for sewing medium weight fabrics. It has additional digital features and a special birds nest prevention function.
Juki DLN – 9010A (needle-feed)
The Juki DLN-9010A lockstitch uses a needle-feed mechanism to avoid ply-shifting when sewing multiple layers or difficult fabrics.
Rexel UK-2 Eco / UK-2 roller blind cutting tables
This foot-controlled lift allows for easy inspection of roller blinds. It makes it easy to check the levelness of slats in the blinds. Checking the blinds ensures that the fabric is properly wound onto the tube and allows you to make adjustments if necessary.
Rexel WK-1 roller blind inspection hoists
The Rexel WK-1 control lift (Inspection hoist for blinds) is designed for testing roller blinds. The lift makes it easy to check the levelness of slats in the blinds and ensures that the fabric can is properly wound onto the tube. It also makes it easy to carry out any necessary adjustments.
Advance ASA-RBS4000 roller blind sewing station
Unlock unparalleled efficiency in your curtain manufacturing process with the Advance ASA-RBS4000 roller blind sewing station. Crafted to meet the demands of blind manufacturing customers, this cutting-edge solution utilizes the Juki DLN-9010AS direct-drive sewing head, boasting automatic thread trimming, footlift, and backtack capabilities.
Advance ASA-SLS semi-automatic louvre vane sewing machine
The Advance ASA-SLS is a semi-automated solution for sewing hems on vertical blinds. It incorporates a Juki DDL-8700-7 industrial sewing machine head with an edge detection photocell or stitch count system. It can accurately sew ten hems in 30 seconds. The functions of this machine are primarily for louvre sewing.
Advance ASA-AMS/B programmable pattern sewing machine for sewing encapsulated weights for blinds.
The Advance ASA-AMS/B is specifically designed for cut to length louvre blinds to be sewn up automatically. With the guide being able to sew all common louvre blind width from 63mm to 127mm, we can sew the weights and clips in closed using either straight, zig zag or u shaped pocket closing options.
If you are looking for a machine to take your hobby sewing to a professional standard, planning to start up a new business, or even upgrading existing machines, we can help! We don’t just sell machines in boxes; our team build and them up set up every machine in a way which is tailored to you and your processes. We are also on-hand to provide advice and technical support to keep things running smoothly! You can contact our team directly through the contact form on our website or by emailing info@ae-sewingmachines.co.uk